A day later we continued on from the Salar to the Chilean border. No electricity in the entire area meant that the pumps of the one existing gas station on the way to the border (about half a day’s driving away) weren’t working.
(Point of interest: if you see a gas station in Bolivia that is not overrun by people, chances are they’re either out of gas or have no electricity.)
(Another point of interest: if gas stations aren’t working, chances are, people that still have gas aren’t selling you any as they need it all for themselves.)
As the hours on our bumpy little road passed by we were getting more and more desperate. In the end we finally found a business-minded woman who probably made the deal of a lifetime on us. I assume she started packing to leave for greener pastures as soon as our dust-cloud disappeared behind the next hill. But, we were able to fill up our tank which meant that we would actually (probably, most likely) make it to the Chilean border, tarmac and all the other civilization-y goodnesses, so we were quite happy with the affair and able to enjoy the surroundings again.

The border-crossing completed (3-4 hours of corrupt border policemen, forms in triplicates, luggage searches and a sandstorm later) we made our way down to the coast. In pitch black again, but hey, back on tarmac, we weren’t going to complain.

Sunrise in Iquique
We stayed in Iquique for a day before following the Panamericana up to Arica. Lovely road. Chileans know how to build roads and – equally important – have the money to do it.

Not far from Arica, the road ends. Well, not literally, but someone surely felt that way when putting up the sign.

Feeling brave enough to continue despite that, we were (eventually) rewarded with the city of Arica. Somewhat smaller and more idyllic than Iquique, it’s also a costal city, water meeting sand and all that.

We stayed for a day before once again hitting the road. Time enough for a trip to the harbour and its overpowering smell of fishy fish-ness. Colourful and loud, the harbour is a mess of small fishing boats, pelicans and sea lions. The Boyfriend had a run in with a grumpy sea lion who took offence at his presence on the pier and torpedoed over to express his displeasure from a closer range. Boyfriend decided that pictures were not worth tangling with some hundred kilos of potentially upset sea lion and backed away rather quickly.

(to be continued)